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Frozen Everything – the End of Cycling Patagonia.




I awake one Autumn Patagonian morning.  I am cold.  My sleeping bag is soaked through.  I try to open my tent.  I can’t.  The zipper is frozen shut.  Why is my sleeping bag wet?  I panic and force the tent’s zipper open.  Everything outside is white.  I am cold.  Why is my sleeping bag wet?  My bicycle looks all pretty, white and sparkly!

I run my hand over the tent.  It’s frozen.  The tent being frozen fills me with excitement.  I have no idea why.  Defrosting will take hours in such coldness and I make the executive decision to pack up frozen.  I’m in a remote part of the world.  A road to this part of Patagonia was only completed in 1996.  Such remoteness means I can’t be sure I’ll even pass a house this day. Having a wet tent and sleeping bag could well be a problem when temperatures plummet as night arrives.  My fingers hurt with cold.  Pack up fast Ishbel and get cycling!


I stick my head inside the tent.  My hands touch the wet sleeping bag and my mind flashes back to the long climb the previous day.  My thoughts consumed with each pedal stroke of sticking my thumb out and hitchhiking.  A ridiculous state of mind to be in.  There is no traffic on this road!  Click to continue reading →

Ushuaia: Beginning or The End?

My ultimate travel dream of South America comes crashing down to earth with a bang into the gusts of wind so brutal, pushing me this way and that all over the road.  Cycling out from Ushuaia airport I’m scared at my inability to control my bicycle and pedal only 3 km before retreating to the camping, reserved exclusively for cycle tourers. I’ve wanted South America […] Click to continue reading →