I was on my own again as I left my wild camping spot at Moranj Public Beach. This is a great place to camp on crossing the Croatian border into Montenegro. Being October, the few facilities on the beach were closed, so the showers did not work for me. If you are passing this place in tourist season however, you know you can at least stop here for a shower with magnificent views. From the beach park entrance walk straight down to the waters edge. If you look to the left there is a concrete jetty. This picks up the WiFi of the restaurant so if you go there for a coffee and get the WiFi code.
The road around the bay to Kotor is absolutely beautiful. So much so it demands your time. So relax, take it easy and enjoy. This was my favorite place visually of what I saw in Montenegro.
Arriving into Kotor, keep to the road following the sea rather than the road into the centre, unless you want to explore the town. This road looks the longer option on the map but it’s flat and you will continue a beautiful cycling experience. The road is narrow for this part but cycling in October there were only a few cars passing. Perhaps in summer if the road is busy the experience would not be so peaceful and soothing. The other road out of Kotor is supposed to include a very steep hill.
I passed through Budva and camped in Becici in the grounds of a church looked after by nuns. I had received an email during the day from Pablo from The Crazy Travel telling me about the perfect spot to camp. Thanks to the maps.me app (maps you can view offline) I found it and as far as camping spots go it was very close to perfection. It had a water fountain, a washing line and even a socket to charge my stuff. I sat eating my bread and jam and enjoyed amazing views overlooking the beach and sea. It was quiet and I felt safe.
It’s well worth cycling right along to the east of Montenegro to Ulcinj. A place to spend some chill time – the beaches were beautiful and at this time, deserted. Even in winter I found the showers to be working, unlike the rest of the Montenegro beaches. Accessing WiFi is easy for a beach town. I found the people here to be very friendly and helpful – it’s a cheery place even in winter. Mid October and I was lying on a beach in a bikini. A remarkable feat for a Scottish woman. One of the beaches in Ulcinj is called Ladies Beach. The locals believe swimming here helps a women’s fertility. The water has high concentrations of sulfur, radium and of course sea salt. I deliberately avoided this beach.
Montenegro is a wild camping paradise, especially in October. The weather is still hot and you can swim but it’s deserted of tourists.
If you only have a week for a cycle tour, Montenegro is definitely a place I’d recommend.
Ishbel, creator of World Bike Girl, has spent her life on bicycles, from road racing, to velodrome sprinting to cycling the world. She has pedalled across 20 countries solo and promotes commuting by bicycle. Much to the dismay of her friends, she is an avid wearer of socks and sandals.